Femininity Seventies inspired by the atmosphere of Radcliffe College, “Love Story” proposed by Orla Kiely to “women warriors” dressed in black leather and Gareth Pugh, London Fashion Week FW 2015/2016 goes live.
After the magic and emotions given away by the New York fashion shows, the baton passes to the London Fashion Week. And since the early days, it is clear that in the collections that go up on the catwalk is the same melting pot that is the capital of the UK a unique place where cultures and traditions meet and mingle giving shape to new currents and trends, in the social and cultural substrate as in fashion.
From Seventies to Eighties
From the Seventies atmosphere of Love Story brought to the catwalk by Orla Kiely to those Eighties Holly Fulton, passing through the ideas inspired by the melancholy poetry of Wes Anderson that pervade the collection FW 2015/2016 of Emilia Wickstead, the second day of London Fashion Week explores femininity in its most representative components. The woman Orla Kiely, in fact, moves-physically, thanks to a set that reproduces the interior of a library-among the bookshelves of Radcliffe College attended by Jennifer Cavalleri / Ali MacGraw dressed in mididress with knee-length skirt, waist marked and white collar with rounded tips, shirts and sweaters with geometric workings of retro taste, blouses with jabot, complete skirt and pants with jackets with slim lines and mini volumes, bon ton double-breasted coats, available in rich colors like mustard, brown, emerald, pink salmon green. Holly Fulton, however, it is inspired by the “assertive femininity” Joan Collins Eighties to build a collection in design and style and contemporary materials, with tulle, satin, silk, latex, cashmere, Mongolian fur to shape long and short dresses reminiscent negligee and underwear, coats and chic coats and raincoats smart, flared skirts and sheath dresses and soft pants to the palace, in a color palette ranging from ivory to pink, red to green sage. The proposed Emilia Wickstead, finally, is a game of contrasting colors and materials and contrasts plain and prints, fluid and defined, mini and maxi, constructed and deconstructed describing heads melancholic elegance, as the suit with jacket and leaning long flowing skirt bell, and other aggressive mood, such as coat-hood without placket in black latex.
Future is now
The future? And now. At London Fashion Week FW 2015/2016 Faustine Steinmetz, a finalist of the prestigious LVMH Prize, in fact it offers a collection that is pure experimentation, using cotton and denim characterized by a laborious process of “felting” made by hand, with the last step which consists of “brushing” the fibers to get what the designer calls “photoshop effect “. The result is a true art installation, with the models seen through makeshift portholes arranged by Thomas Petherwick. With its collection Survivor , however, Danielle Romeril offers the vision of a “dystopian future”, where you can not buy anything, but just get the barter: an assumption on which the designer constructs a series of garmentsoversize materials with even very different from each other (for example velvet, flocked lace and plaid), sewn together with the Japanese technique called odoshi , which is the one used to realize the samurai armor. Less extreme, but no less visionary, the proposal of Sibling: the trio of creative consists of Sid Bryan, Joe Bates and Cozette McCreery will actually bring on the catwalk a collection inspired techno-punk , playing dress up with colors classic style garments fluo (pink and orange), unusual materials (latex) and absolutely unexpected details (zip and fringes).
The second day of London Fashion Week ends in the name of women’s industrial warriors, who find their uniforms and armor in the collections of Lucas Nascimento, House of Holland and Gareth Pugh. The Brazilian designer who trained at the London College of Fashion proposes a series of garments with clean and essential lines forms, among which the maxi leather coats with contrasting lining, designed to dress metropolitan modern warrior, or all women daily He divided between family, career and leisure time. The Creative House of Hollande, however, cater to a younger audience, with a collection of dresses made-striped apron with petticoat network, oversized and skinny pants, leggings, maxi furs and outerwear with slim volumes with fur trim , declined in solid colors and various patterns in bright colors and black. The highly anticipated Gareth Pugh, finally, it does not betray the expectations and raises in real catwalk and their warriors women (complete with painted faces and flags), who wear rigid and minimal bodices, narrow-waisted skirts that open into a large range and coats and capes with clean lines complemented by “collars” Victorian taste.All strictly black, with hundreds of straws used as applications and finishes to “play down” the effect dark gothic.