New York Fashion Week FW 2015-2016 ended with a tribute to the traditions: from Old America Ralph Lauren all’excursus in the folklore of Transylvania Dorin Negrau, the past is nostalgia, but also a stepping stone to the future.
The curtain falls on New York Fashion Week FW 2015-2016. With the eagerly awaited show of Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs, yesterday it closed the last edition license plate Mercedes-Benz of the event. Eclectic, sometimes grandiose, experimental, reassuring, classic and often nostalgic, the week of American fashion has traveled the universe of femininity exploring the multiple facets and being able to surprise and tear applause until the last show on the last day.
To open the last day of fashion shows at New York Fashion Week FW 2015/2016 was Ralph Lauren, who sent the catwalk a collection old America. The designer of the Big Apple has made it a tribute to the past and the traditions of his country with a series of garments that mix influences the wild West to suggestions borrowed directly from the years of Prohibition.By day his woman as shearling wrap, jackets and coats with flowing lines patchworked, embroidered, inlaid with tribal motifs and finishes in fur, shirts and sweaters (really very much the knitwear ), soft trousers, skirts below the knee that mark forms, with fur bearskin hats and cloth hats, playing a feisty and strong-willed model of femininity. In the evening, however, it turns into a mermaid sheathed in gowns of silver scales or in a garçonne blacks in dry, broken tuxedo complete with suspenders and shorts-skirt and pinstriped mannish.
Eroticism and military precision
They are placed at the extremes the Fall Winter 2015/2016 by Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs for inspiration and style, but both are characterized by a theoretical study that borders on mania and a realization that denotes taste and sartorial skills. Calvin Klein, in fact, It draws from the suggestions of Polaroid erotic Carlo Mollino, from Lou Reed and the poetic femininity free-spirited Austrian artist Kiki Kogelnik for a woman dressed in leather and latex, long coats down to the ankles and trench from the flared shape, clothes, blouses , skirts and pants with portholes and piercing, which is at the same time dominatrix and slave, strong and fragile. Marc Jacobs, however, sent to the catwalk a woman who dressesaccording to the military code, but not in a militaristic: “last season it was characterized by very strong military influence, but comic. This [for me, ed] is geared to military precision, but without militaristic references”. The collection of the brilliant New York designer becomes so real show of tailoring , with embroidery, patchwork, inlays, decorations declined on coats (many coats), sweatshirts, sweaters, dresses, pants that mix masculine and feminine, playing with genres and make tribute to the history of fashion and, before that, the style and art.
Experimentation and classicism
Squeezed between the giants of the fashion made in the USA, the last day of the American Fashion Week paraded young designers collective Tokyo Runway Meets New York, the fashion designers brought together under the auspices of the charitable cause advocated by Art Fashion Hearts and the talented-and said-J. Mendel, who ranged between classicism and experimentation, innovation and stylistic elegance encoded by proposing garments in curious patchwork denim, sweaters with tasteful fringe hippy chic, embroided dress, shimmering mermaid dresses, coats, chains and sophisticated clothes embellished with embroidery damask, fluid trousers and clingy blouses, wide sleeves and thin scarves.
The last day of New York Fashion Week FW 2015/2016 there was also time for two bridal collection, characterized by different styles and fruit of a culture as different, but equally fascinating. Sherri Hill, fashion designer famous for Oklahoma his formal wear (even those for the prom, the famous “prom”), led in fact to the catwalk an opulent collection, full of lace and velvet, brocade and taffeta, characterized by stiff bodices and maxi skirts, with puffs of tulle and ruffles, siren dress clingy and princess dresses, the image of the country which has made for itself and is proud to show it. The designer of Romanian origins Dorin Negrau, however, wanted to pay homage to the traditions and culture of their own land, reworking in modern and contemporary way the traditional embroidery of the Transylvania area, for a collection of dresses of bride suspended between past and present, magical and rich in history and folklore.