From the role of protagonist of outerwear to stylistic experimentation and tailoring, the second day of Paris Fashion Week goes through different ideas of fashion and style, but equally exciting.
Not even time to catch his breath and is already the Paris Fashion Week. Continued tight calendar of events dedicated to the ready-to-wear and the second day of parades in the Ville Lumière elects the first protagonist: the outerwear. Jackets and coats, in fact, are the must of the proposed Lemaire, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel and Bouchra Jarrar and claim a leading role in the other collections go up on the catwalk, including that of Dries Van Noten stands for creativity, elegance and sartorial skills.
Capospalla my love
The must-have for next season? The outerwear. A decree are the 2015-2016 autumn-winter collections of Lemaire, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel and Bouchra Jarrar, offering a number of characterized by different styles and aimed at different target jackets and coats, but all united by a sophisticated tailoring research.
Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran lead in fact to the catwalk their young and essential elegance with a wrap-over coat in wool from the processing in a herringbone pattern, which is accompanied by several models from unstructured design and flowing lines, capes and trench coats with bell sleeves and flared hems, available in a palette of colors ranging from gray to navy blue, ivory to pearl. For Sonia by Sonia Rykiel, however, next season is marked by an unprecedented mix of nonchalance Paris and British post-punk, with the Prince of Wales, tartan and faux fur that are mixed with each other to build outerwear irreverent and chic, where the lines classic materials are refurbished by unusualfabrics and traditional styling jackets and coats contemporary taste and sometimes futuristic. Bouchra Jarrar finally, remains true to its ultra-sophisticated style, with essential shapes and minimal, vaguely androgynous and with hints of military and sporty , for a collection where the rigor of double-breasted jackets become glamorous by virtue of the reverse maxi and leather bomber jackets and trench coats are discovered thanks to the elegant precious materials and sophisticated details.
Color vs uncolored
There are no half measures for color trends of autumn-winter 2015-2016 season. From the rich palette of bright colors and intense Cédric Charlier we pass it to the dark tones of Guy Laroche and “No” shades of gray Alexis Mabille.
Cédric Charlier choose cobalt blue, Kelly green, burgundy, peach and white for a collection where elegant and casual, classic and modern, minimalist lines and constructed forms mingle and contrast to create a series of garments designed to be actually worn every day while Adam Andrascik of Guy Laroche rush on black, marsala, silver and gold with the declared intent to surprise and renew the aesthetic of the house, but with the-certainly not want-results do raise a few eyebrows in the room. While, in fact, the style of the brand as a bare back, tall and sexy cuts neck describe elegant and sophisticated clothes, on the other hand the use of too many different materials and views and prints magazines, as well as an aesthetic confused, give shape to pieces without placement. Not only fashion, but just conceptual. A “put things right” But we think Alexis Mabille, which is not surprising with choices and radical design, but it sends the catwalk a really nice sporty chic collection, entirely played on gray, available in a range of colors ranging from silver steel. From trousers to jackets, from top to skirts, head phones in soft mohair, each piece of the French designer is researched and balanced, perfect to wear with lightness and simplicity.
Elegance is not a coincidence
Paris Fashion Week has started only two days, but there are others who are willing to bet that the fall-winter 2015-2016 collection of Dries Van Noten will remain the most elegant of all. Inspired by the ” legacy of women really passionate about fashion, famous women of the past”, the designer sends the catwalk a series of garments where the glitz and luxury are declared and obvious, but it declined with a grace that it becomes detail. The long-haired fur, jacquard and gold brocade, prints flamboyant and chinoiserie are declined in fact shapes and clean lines, perfect in their simplicity, and leaders who border on casual. As can be casual opulence. Chic styling and high luxury , who returns albeit in a less obvious in the collection of Rochas, characterized by a palette of autumn colors really, where the orange lights a series of brown, gray and sand, and a refined design and all ‘ he teaches tailoring, which manifests itself in the soft enveloping coats, in the clothes with visible bras and jackets and skirts embellished with ruffles, frills and materials decorations.
To close the second day of parades, finally, the proposal for the next season of Vionnet, which as explained by Goga Ashkenazi “revolves around the destruction of the beauty concept”. An ambitious premise, which is not fully reflected in the implementation: the naive mood of the first look, in fact, is completely overturned in the aggressive style of the past, with an excess of ideas and achievements that distracts from the inspiration of departure and leaves the viewer confused and uncertain about the judgment.
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